RJ Dudley

The Kindle 2.5 upgrade dropped today, and I love that Amazon lets you update manally.  My killer feature this time was going to be Collections, with the promise that you could finally arrange your content into folders.  I'm not sure why this was never present on a device that could hold like 1500 books and is based on Linux, but it wasn't.

Here's what I was expecting: when you connect your Kindle via USB, it shows up as a drive.  Open the Kindle drive and there are three folders--audible, documents and music.  I'm expecting to be able to open documents, create a folder, and drag my content into the folder.  Standard stuff on pretty much anything these days.  Much like any other OS, when I arrange the display by title, the collections/folders would be on top in aplhabetical order, and anything not in a subfolder would follow, also in alphabetical order.

Here's the reality: Collections can only be created through the Kindle menu. Documents can be added to Collections by using the 5-way controller to highlight the document, nudging the 5-way to the right to expose a "right-click" menu, then choosing "Add to a Collection".  You're then presented with a list of available collections, and you can choose the collection.  Repeat for every document you want to organize.  I imagine in someone's mind this was a cool idea so you could put a document in multiple Collections, but why when you could already tag documents with multiple tags, and then selectively display content by tag.

The real annoyance is sorting the home screen.  If you sort by collections, the Collections show up alphabetically, and anything in a Collection does not appear.  Anything not in a Collection is organized in some other non-alphabetical fashion.  If you sort by title, Collections show in line with the rest of the content, and all titles--even the ones in a Collection--are listed as well.

Collections are not folders--they are simply metadata the UI uses to arrange items.  After you create a Collection, there is no subfolder.  No one has ever accused Amazon.com of having a great UI experience, and it seems they're going to carry that experience through to the Kindle.

My dad bought a Motorola Droid, and has a custom domain email account hosted by Google Apps.  In order to activate the Droid, you must have a GMail account (much the same as you need an iTunes account to activate an iPhone).  Even though Google Apps email is hosted by GMail, a Google Apps email account can not be used to activate an Android phone—you will still need a GMail account.  The Verizon rep had to create a dummy account for my dad just to get the phone turned on.

I did send an email to Verizon’s tech support, and here was the reply:

An email hosted by Google apps for domain would not be able to take the place of a gmail account.

So there you have it, straight from Verizon (kudos to VZW tech support for the less than 18 hour answer via both email and a voice mail).  After your Android phone is activated, you can use the Mail program to use your Google Apps email.  IMAP seems to be the recommended method, since Android is mentioned specifically in the IMAP setup, but POP3 would apparently work, too.

Here are setup instructions for the two protocols.

IMAP: https://mail.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?answer=114408

POP3: http://mail.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?answer=13287

Thanks to our friends at Novell and the Mono project:

Available immediately, monoTouch enables applications developed in any .net language to run on the iPhone. Significantly, monoTouch provides .net bindings to native API, allowing application developers will have access to iPhone specific functionality from within their .net applications. monoTouch integrates with both the free MonoDevelop IDE as well as Apple's XCode toolkit.

Applications developed using monoTouch compile completely to native code - they are not JIT compiled or interpreted.

This is a commercial offering, not an open-source appliction, and will set you back $399.  But with over a million iPhones, and a few more million iPod Touches, a good app can recoup that pretty easily.  This is for Mac OSX only, not Windows.

Find it at http://monotouch.net/.

I installed the coolest thing on my laptop today, and it’s not a software tool.  My laptop is now sporting a SideQuik document holder.  There’s not a tremendous amount that needs to be said to describe a document holder.  It attaches to your laptop monitor and holds papers--pretty simple concept.  But what’s really cool about the SideQuik is its design.  The SideQuik slides both left and right, to hold documents on whichever side is most convenient (handy in tight places), and if you have space, you can set it on the table, too.  It’s very thin, so it doesn’t add a lot of bulk, and still allows my laptop to slide into and out of my case easily.  Click the photo for more images and details (Note: that’s not me in the photo).

 

If clear isn’t your gig, you can also add skins and a little whiteboard insert, too.

If you’ve been around me, you know I’m pretty adamant about not adorning my laptop, so I have to explain just how momentous this is for me to attach anything to it.  I have a Dell Vostro 1500 laptop, and I like its sleek look.  It has a stealthy appearance, in an F117-A kind of way.  I’ve had plenty of opportunity to decorate--Dani tried at Installfest to get a Visual Studio 2008 sticker on it, but even the free VS 2008 license wasn’t enough incentive.  ASP Alliance sent stickers to us authors, and they’ve paid me well through the years.  Paul Nielsen from SQL Server Bible handed out the cool Euro-style SQL stickers at DevTeach (see them on his front page).  As you can see from the photo below, undecorated after over a year.

But that’s changed.  Although the appearance is different, the profile hasn’t been significantly altered.

Now that you’ve seen it, quit being a dork and fumbling papers everywhere.  Go get a SideQuik.

The new iPhone has hit the streets, and with its ActiveSync support, that means it’s hit our enterprise, too.  We support Windows Mobile via Activesync and Blackberries via BES, and we enforce password and locking policies on all devices.  The deal breaker is whether or not a device can be remotely wiped, which Windows Mobile and Blackberries can.  One of our coworkers scored a new iPhone on “Release Day”, so we had a chance to test it out.

After configuring ActiveSync, the iPhone picked up the policies fine, after a reboot, the PIN policy was in place, as was the user’s e-mail.  When we tested the remote wipe, trouble ensued.

It appears that remotely wiping an iPhone bricks the device.  Unlike a Blackberry or Smart Phone, which are basically reset to factory after a remote wipe, the iPhone starts to an Apple logo and just sits there.  Attempts to resurrect it by sync’ing it with iTunes had no effect.  The error messages indicate that the OS is not found on the device.

We’re still working on it, and are about ready to visit a Genius Bar or AT&T store to resolve the issue.

<update>

The iPhone has been rejuvenated.  The user was attempting to reactivate the iPhone through his iTunes, which originally activated the phone (and was installed Friday, Release Day.  For some reason, it wasn’t working.  When the iPhone was hooked up to a new install of iTunes today (Tuesday), the iPhone came back to life.  We’re not sure if there was a hotfix for a known problem or just a different iTunes or what, but the issue seems to be resolved.

When you have a phone number assigned to you by the phone company, it doesn't change on a daily or monthly basis.  It's static.  It only changes when you relocate to a different service area.  That's because your phone number is designed to be used for incoming communications--for people to call you.

On the other hand, your cable modem or DSL may not have a static number (called an IP address).  That's because these connections were meant for outbound communications--you surfing the Internet.  Most providers will assign you a static IP if you request one, usually for an extra charge that may not make it worth doing.

If you can't or don't want to get a static IP, but still need a static way to find your node, you can look into a dynamic DNS service.  Most of these are free for a single address.

DD-WRT supports a number DNS services, and you find the Dynamic DNS (DDNS) setup under Setup >> DDNS.  Click the images for a larger view.

I've used DynDNS.org for a while now.  It's very simple and stable, and is free for a single address.  You sign up with DynDNS, and choose the url subdomain ("hostname") you'd like to use--it will be something like myvpn.gotdns.org.

After you've signed up for a DDNS account, go back to your router's DDNS settings and enter your account's settings.

Typically, you will have a Dynamic type of account, and it will not be a Wildcard account.  These are more advanced configurations, and typically don't come with the free services.  You'll know if you need them, and you can always upgrade the day you do.

After configuring the DDNS settings, the router in a short time will update your account's settings.  On the client end, you now need to edit your OVPN configuration file, and put the host name where the IP address was, in the "remote" line.  Now, even though your IP address may be reassigned periodically, you'll always be able to use a static host name to locate your VPN.

I needed an inexpensive but flexible VPN solution.  Inspired by some blog posts and podcasts (linked below), I looked into changing the firmware on my Linksys router.  The firmware I found is the open source DD-WRT.  I am by no means a Linksys or DD-WRT expert.  I'm just someone who managed to muddle through things on my own.  Some steps I got right the first time, and some took a couple of tries.  This post, and my explanations and experiences, are one contribution back to the community.  I hope they help!

According to the DD-WRT list of supported hardware, my current router (a WRT54GS v5) won't work.  So I picked up a Linksys WRT54GL from Amazon, and went to work.  Again, make sure you get the GL version.

I installed DD-WRT v23 SP2 VPN, generic version, using Internet Explorer (apparently there is sometimes a timeout issue with FireFox when uploading the firmware).  At the time of this post, this is the most recent stable version.  There are several editions of DD-WRT, so make sure you get the VPN version.  The generic edition is the one to use for the WRT54GL router.  You can check their download section to look for a different edition, or see if there is a more recent version.

On a fresh, out of the box router, installation was a snap.  I simply logged in to the web interface, uploaded the new firmware and rebooted the router.  I did not need to use the mini version first, since I have a WRT54GL v1.1 (you can check your version on the bottom of the router).  The older models apparently have a 2MB limit on the upload file size, and the DD-WRT file is 3+MB.  There is no such limitation on v1.1 and above WRT54GL routers, so if you have one of these, you can upload the full version right away.

After making sure I could access the Internet through the router, the fun began--setting up the VPN.

To enable the VPN on the router, log in to the web interface and go Administration >> Services.

Scroll down to the OpenVPN section and select Enable.  On my installation, I accepted the default port, protocol and TUN settings.  Scroll to the bottom of the page, and save the settings.  A reboot of the router wouldn't be a bad idea.

DD-WRT implements OpenVPN, which is great but also means setup instructions are spread over several websites.  There are a couple configurations you can use--Server Mode with Static Key (which is simpler to set up, but only allows a single VPN connection), and Server Mode With Certificates, which is a little more complicated but allows multiple simultaneous connections.  I chose Server Mode with Certificates, since I need multiple connections.  The formatting on the wiki page makes following the tutorial a little confusing, so I'll try to guide you through the steps.  There is some bouncing around to several sites during the configuration, which can get a little confusing, too.

Before you do anything else on the router, go to http://openvpn.net/ and download the OpenVPN client.  You need to install the client in order to generate the certificates needed during the router configuration.  Since I'm a Windows user, I downloaded the OpenVPN GUI for Windows (this is a separate site from the OpenVPN site, and the download is all you need from this site).  Look for the Installation Package under the Stable downloads.  Run the installer and let it do its thing.  You may be prompted that an adapter has not passed Windows testing--in this instance, that's OK, go ahead and install it.

Once the client is installed, you need to generate at least three sets of keys and certificates and one set of encryption parameters to ensure your VPN's security.  All the utilities you need are installed with the OpenVPN GUI client.  Before we generate any keys, I'll explain what they do.  Also, configuring the VPN causes the router to reboot at one point, so it's a good idea to do this when no one is connected.

The full instructions for generating the certificates and keys you need are on the OpenVPN site at http://openvpn.net/howto.html#pki.  Once you complete the section for generating the certs and keys, you're done with their site.

Important!  When you generate your certs and keys, you'll be prompted to enter some variables.  In some cases, this information needs to be the same for all certs and keys, and some variables need to be different.  Pay attention to the variables for each set of certs and keys!

I recommend editing the vars.bat file to make life a little easier.

Now is the time to start generating your certs and keys.  Follow the instructions (linked above), but read through the commentary below for each cert before actually creating it.

You'll be acting as your own Certificate Authority, so you need to generate a CA certificate and a CA key, which are used to sign each of the subsequent certificates and keys.  Having the same CA signature on the client and the server means both keys were generated by the same person, and is the top level of trust between the server and the client.  You need to keep the CA cert and key a secret, and you need to be sure to securely archive a copy of each so you can create additional certs and keys in the future.  You'll install the CA cert (but not the key) on the router, and use it to sign any future client keys.  If you edited the vars.bat file, when you generate the cert and key, you only need to enter the Common Name variable.  You can make this whatever you like, but I suggest using something recognizable such as your business name or your name.

The next certificate and key are for the server.  These both will also be installed on the router.  For this pair, when you are prompted to enter the Common Name, enter something like "server".  Also, be sure to sign and commit the certificate.

For each client you want to connect to the VPN, you'll need to generate a certificate and key.  These will not be loaded onto the server--instead, you'll copy one set to each client.  Client sets are the only ones you'll generate multiple ones of.  For each client cert/key pair, enter a different Common Name for each (such as "client1", "client2", etc).

Since certificates need to be exchanged over the open Internet, we'll need a little additional cryptography to ensure they are secure.  OpenVPN uses Diffie-Hellman as part of the key exchange.  These will be loaded onto the server.  There are no additional variables to enter for these.

Once the certs and keys have been generated, pick up in the Server Configuration steps of Server Mode with Certificates section of the DD-WRT site.  The next few paragraphs flow along with the instructions there.  Read their instructions, then read my comments below before doing anything.

Step 2 & 4: Copy the sample rc_startup script into a text editor, and insert the ca.crt, server.key, server.crt and dh1024.pem where indicated (you'll find the keys and certs at c:\program files\openvpn\easy-rsa\keys).  I also had to change the last line of the script to the workaround shown.  After I had set everything up, I couldn't keep the VPN connection open, and this workaround fixed the problem.  If you changed the port or protocol when you enabled the VPN service, you need to make sure the changes are reflected in this script, too.

Once you've inserted the proper keys and certs, log in to the web interface and navigate to the Commands tab.  On a new installation, you should not have any saved commands, so all you need to do is copy the rc_startup script into the box and click the Save Startup button. 

Step 3-5:  On a fresh installation, you won't have a saved rc_firewall command.  Copy the one shown, and save the firewall script the same way.  Reboot the router, if it doesn't happen for you.

Step 6: You can use the DOS telnet command to access the router and execute the shell command.  Simply go to a command window, and type "telnet 192.168.1.1".  Log in, and execute the "ps | grep openvpn".  This command searches the stack of recently executed instructions and prints them to the screen.  You should see a couple of commands show up, indicating OpenVPN has been called, and is therefore running.

  

Once the server is configured, follow through the Client Configuration section (at this time, only three steps and a short explanation).  Copy a client key and cert pair to the config folder (C:\Program Files\OpenVPN\config), as well at the ca.crt, and save the config file to this same folder.  Name the file whatever you want, but the extension should be .ovpn.  Make sure you put in the proper IP address to your router, and enter the right file names for the CA cert and client cert/key.   You should now be able to connect to your VPN--just remember to try it from outside your LAN!  Start the OpenVPN Gui client from the Start menu, and it will appear in the taskbar, down by the clock.  Right-click on the icon and choose Connect.

If you don't have a static IP address, you might want to look into a dynamic DNS service, such as DynDNS.org (see link below).  You can set up a free account, and choose a custom subdomain.  You can configure the DD-WRT software to update the DynDNS records every time your IP changes.  This way, you only need to configure a DNS name in the config file, and you can always access your system.

Troubleshooting

OpenVPN GUI has a console where you can see what's going on.  I ran into a couple problems with my VPN.

If the connection is made and drops repeatedly, make sure you use the workaround in the rc_setup script (replacing the last line with the two indicated below the script).

If you can connect to the VPN, and an ipconfig /all shows you have an IP address from the VPN server, but you can't access anything inside your network, it might be your local router.  My old home router prevented me from accessing any of the remote resources.

Useful Links:

Linksys-Cisco WRT54GL Wireless-G Broadband Router (Compatible with Linux)

Hack Attack: Turn Your $60 Router Into A $600 Router

Podcast: The Linksys WRT54GL Router

Podcast: Setting Up A Home Network

Adding Additional Clients to your WRT54GL/DD-WRT VPN

Using a Dynamic DNS Service with DD-WRT

Summary: Totally unsuitable for a wedding videographer, but a total blast for a wedding guest.

I'm on my way to a conference next week, and I want to take a small video camera with me.  After reading the Wall Street Journal's review, I picked up the Flip Video Ultra Series today.  w00t!

Unboxing the Flip was pleasant--their packaging engineers obviously took notes from Apple's group, since the experience was evocative of unboxing an iPod.  When you remove the inner packaging, you're greeted with the question "What will you see today?", which makes you feel creative, or at least feel like trying to be creative.

Immediate gratification nuts will be pleased that the Flip video is powered by two AA batteries, which are included in the box.  Not only can you start playing with the camera immediately, if you find yourself short of power, but far from a plug, you can usually find AAs nearby.

Recording your first video is almost too easy.  Find the dog or the baby, turn on the device, aim it, and press the red button to start.  You're recording!  Press the same red button to stop.  When you have a video or two, you can play it back on the small screen on the back of the camera.  Or, it's time to connect the Flip to your computer.  Simply turn it off, pop out the USB connector (it opens with a sexy switchblade type of action), and plug it in to the USB port on your computer.  You might want to think about a USB extension cable here, if your USB ports are in an awkward location or closely packed (honestly, nearly all of them are).

I plugged the Flip in to my laptop's USB port, and it was recognized instantly, even on a very old laptop running Windowx XP SP2.  It showed up as an extrernal drive, so I could copy the AVI file from the Flip to my laptop.  However, when I tried to play the video, Windows Media Player needed to downlad a codec, which failed.  I was prompted to download an update to WiMP, which started the lengthy process of downloading and installing WiMP 11.  Even on cable internet, this takes a while, and requires a reboot to finish.  If Windows Media Player gives you problems, just avoid it.  The good news is, the wonderful Gomplayer worked like a charm.  And, being free, I'd recommend checking this out, rather than diddling around with Windows Media Player.

The Flip Video also includes its own software, which I tried after my experiment with Gomplayer.  The software lives and runs on the camera, so there’s no installation.  On PCs with the autorun feature turned on, the software should automatically start when you connect the camera.  The camera’s software allows you to play videos directly on the device, copy them to your computer, share them with  others via e-mail, YouTube, AOL Video or shrink the viideos for uploading to other sites yourself.  Also included is Muvee, which you can use to make video mashups with what you record.  There is software for both Mac and Windows.  For uploading, videos are converted to WMV from AVI, and shrunk to a smaller screen size.  Even still, on a computer monitor, the compressed videos had enough detail so you really knew what was going on.

This is a device meant for small-screen recording, and fairly close to the subjects.  The zoom is only 2x, so this isn't a device you'd want to use to record a seminar from the back of the room.  It might work in a classroom to record lectures, but it's really better designed for carrying around and shooting in close social environments.  The condensor mike is internal and on the front of the camera, and doesn't pick up sounds too far away, which can also be a good thing since there isn't a lot of background noise.  What's really impressive is the way the camera automatically and quickly adjusts to light conditions.  You can point the camera at a TV or window, and in around a second, the camera has adjusted itself so you have a clear image of what's on TV or going on outside.  Pan back to a darker area, and again in about a second the camera has readjusted itself so you have a fairly clear view of what you’re aiming at.

Included in the package is a cable you can use to connect the Flip Video directly to a TV (the standard 1 video/stereo audio cable, nothing fancy).  I did the experiment, and hooked my Flip up directly to a 34” Sony Bravia HDTV.  On this TV, the picture quality is lower than an analog TV signal, but still good enough to share party or vacation videos on.  I recommend sticking to lower resolution PC monitors, but on a standard TV, you probably couldn’t tell the difference between the Flip and the TV signal.

While talking to the sales guy, my buddy Jon Palmiero of Honda North walks by, and starts ogling the Flip Video I'm carrying.  He was picking up a new point-and-click for an upcoming vacation, and I promised he could play with my Flip when he gets back.  Watch for some little videos on their blog (http://www.hondanorthblog.com/) after we're all back from vacations.

Overall, I'm really impressed.  I wondered about the video quality and the light adjustment, but both seem to be quite good.  I'm not sure if I'd hand this to a very small child, but older children would have a blast with this camera, and even your grandmother could use it.  There’s nothing fancy about this camera—it’s just a little device which works.

Positives:

1. Unbelievably incredibly easy to use.
2. Very compact--almost the identical size as my Treo 700w (minus anntenna).
3. Decent image quality with good automatic exposure compensation, but meant for the smaller, lower resolution screens.
4. Tripod connector, for stability
5. The software is carried around on the device, so no matter what computer you plug into, you can compress and share the videos you make, right from the camera.
6. 2 GB of onboard RAM, no cards, hard drives, tapes, etc.

Negatives:

1. Tough to plug in on my laptop with a second device (such as the wireless mouse fob), and when it is plugged in, it hangs a little awkwardly from the USB port.  I recommend purchasing a USB extension cord.  It would be really cool if they're include even a short one in the package--I tink that would be more useful than the cable to connect the camera to your TV.   I would have happily paid a few bucks more to have a short cable included in the package, and avoid the PITA (and wait) of obtaining one myself.
2. Since the software lives on the device, you will need something else to play/edit your files when the camera is not connected.  Use your favorite, or check out Gomplayer to play, and find an editor on this list of open source video editing software.  If you’re really into the portability aspects, you can find portable versions of a couple of tools at Portable Apps.
3. No lens cap.  Be really, really careful with the camera.
4. No pause function.  You start and stop, but can’t pause a recording.
5. You get 60 min, and then you need to move some videos to your PC.  You can’t simply switch out a tape or a memory card.

When I first bought my SC-101, I loved it.  I had a pair of 200GB drives, mirrored and partitioned into three 50 GB drives each.  This lift 50 GB for future expansion.  A couple years on, and after collecting the photos for our flower shop (The Bloomery in Butler, PA), I started to realize some of the complaints others have had with this device.  The file system doesn't cache the file list, so each time you open a folder, the entire file system has to be read.  As you add more and more files, this time takes longer and longer.  After about 15,000 photos, this was taking a very long time.

Eventually, we ran out of room on the photo parition, and it was time to expand it.  Should be simple enough using the management tools provided, but this is where disaster struck.  The expansion failed, and the photo archive was seemingly lost.

After picking through the help files, I found they include a command-line tool which can be used to recover files from broken partitions.  I ran out and bought a Western Digital USB hard drive, and ran the recovery tool, transferring to the USB drive.  The recovery tool worked perfectly, and I was able to recover all the files, but my confidence in the device was shaken.

The USB drive is a good start, but doesn't really get me where I need to go.  I'll detail some of my next steps in following blog posts.

I have an HP ScanJet 4670, and after installing IE 7, the HP Director software wouldn't work.  Turns out, IE 7 breaks HP director, and there is now a fix:

Critical update to resolve an issue with HP Director after installing IE7: missing icons and contents of HP Director screens which may not function properly after upgrading to IE7

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?softwareitem=oj-46104-1&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=73501&os=228&lang=en

Hat tip: sandi

My newest GTD tool is an oldie but a goodie.  I've started packing my Swiss Army Knife (Ranger model), and it's quite amazing how many things never even hit my inbox now.  I've had one for years, and it's found a lot of use in my office.  Now, it's finding utility all over the place.  Most of the things I prevent from hitting my inbox would go on an extensive list in wifey's head, only to come back at some time when I couldn't do anything about it.  Mainly it's the screwdrivers that find use, but the cutting tools come in handy, and if you need that screwpull, good times are ahead.  Just remember to take it out if you're flying!

There is a workaround to get Picasa to index a photo collection on an Netgear SC101.  The trick is, you have to set Picasa to save imported pictures in the root of the photo drive--go Tools >> Options >> General.  Click the Browse button (next to "Save Imported Pictures In"), and click OK.  Picasa will then index your entire drive.

Another option you have is to use the Import functionality, and import your folders from your Netgear drive.  This requires much patience, and the application may claim to be "Not Responding", but it's just loading information from the drive.  If you have a lot of photos, this can take a while.

I still can't get Picasa to add additional SC101 drives via the foler manager, so it's a good thing I have a partition dedicated to just photos.

They’re here…

Samsung has officially launched its new super-small PC, dubbed the Q1, that is essentially a cross between a laptop and a PDA. It lets users write on the screen, play movies and games, and stay connected to the Internet through wireless hotspots.

Read more: http://www.newsfactor.com/story.xhtml?story_id=0020002BEJ70

Technorati: UMPC

My photo collection is building, and the PictureProject software that shipped with my Nikon D50 is clunky and slow.  Before my collection grows out of control, I wanted to try another piece of software.  Tonight’s test was Picasa, and I think I’ve found the first incompatibility.  Picasa does not see the drives on my SC101.  I can browse the drives fine with Windows Explorer, and PictureProject imports photos from the SC101 drives (although it tends to lose the thumbnails from time to time), but Picasa has no clue these drives exist.  I’ll give the software another chance, but it’s probably back to PictureProject for now.

Not my year for gadgets.  First, my NetGear SC101 suffered a breakdown, and now my cool Logitech Wireless Headphones for iPod have given up their ghost as well.  As soon as the music started playing, the headphones would lose connection with the transmitter.  I could re-pair the headphones and the transmitter, but as soon as the music started, they'd lose their connection again.

E-mailing Logitech support gave me a couple of steps to try, including the reset button and re-pairing, but no fix.  So I'm on the phone with tech support to get an RMA.  I'm going to miss these things until the replacement arrives.